Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
